First ranger v8 swap some questions.

[Soul]

Just picked up an 87 ranger with only 3 dents in the body. An older guy had this truck and the timing belt went out so it preceded to sit 11 years. This thing is in perfect shape. SO my question is, how bad is it to put an AOD in here and what headers will clear it? I picked up a book on the swap and have most everything figured out except this. I plan on using v6 mounts with a plate bolted onto the 302 if that helps figure out engine location.

[v8ranger]

I used the shorty headers. But I also had to cut a notch in the frame on the right side. I dont think all the shory headers are like that. They also make the long headers for these swaps, but they are expensive.

[plowboy34]

We used an AOD on the boys 85 with the Explorer headers and had no problems. Although I understand it is hard to find them headers now days. The AOD goes in just fine, it is a little tight between the front trans crossmember and tunnel but it does go in. If I had to do over I would just remove the crossmember to put in trans then reinstall it. But as far as being able to use the AOD, it's all good. If going automatic it is the trans I reccommend. We pull 20mpg all around on the boys truck, got 24 on a highway trip with 3:08 gears.

[Soul]

Thanks for the replies, I read this forum and RPS pretty much all day yesterday, from what I see most people have to notch the frame for header clearance which is something I wanted to avoid if at all possible.

[cgrey8]

I've got my original stock Explorer tube manifolds. They were designed to work in the Explorer engine bay and with GT40p heads so they look funny. But they'll work in a Ranger without any frame notching. They are just really weird looking and not the best flowing. If you aren't looking to make 300+HP, they should work just fine. But if you are looking to make more-than-stock HP, you'll really want the old Tri-Y headers. Otherwise you are notching the frame. And to be honest, notching the frame isn't a huge deal. It's not that big of a notch and plenty of people have done it running hundreds of HP without any reported issues.

[Soul]

From what I've seen the TRI-Y's don't clear the AOD do they? I'm not opposed to running shorty headers if they clear, just would like to know the year and car to snag from. I appreciate all the feed back and help guys.

[cgrey8]

I've heard both ways on Tri-Ys and AODs. Some say they are tight, but fit. Others say there's some "bending" that's required. But from what I understand, they can fit...even if there's some work involved.

[Soul]

Guess it looks like a set of tri-y's are in the plans then

[Dave]

I don't think those Tri-Y's will clear the 164 t bellhousing. Let me do some digging

Dave

[Soul]

I appreciate it, on a side note any one head anything on these Trick Flow heads? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-51410010-C01/

Price is right and allows me more budget for other things. No idea what horsepower I'm going, probably will be a rebuilt 5.0 HO motor with these heads and a performer intake, not sure what cam.

[Dave]

I see you've been busy at least looking for answers. Found some more info at TRS. Next on to some head test. Those heads might be just on the too big side depending on induction and cam selected and what your indended use is going to be.
Dave

Happy reading! Got this collection from TRS


AOD, which headers?

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So recently, I found out Tri-Y headers do not fit with the AOD. What would be the best route for me to go on headers now? I want to stay cheaper if possible, but stay away from my stock crown vic manifolds.




You might check out the HEDMAN-88400's, and the PATRIOT-H8433's. They are both available Thermal Coated in the $300 price range. I highly recommend the Thermal Coating. Keeps down heat under the hood, and prolongs the life of the header.
I'd stay away from the HEDMAN 89500's. Do your homework.
__________________
'89 Ranger, 5.0L AOD swap in progress, B&M Sport Shifter, ('85 Crown Vic electronics w/ CFI) Edelbrock Performer Intake and Patriot headers, otherwise stock.

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Last edited by wade; 06-20-2009 at 11:04 AM.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wade
You might check out the HEDMAN-88400's, and the PATRIOT-H8433's. They are both available Thermal Coated in the $300 price range. I highly recommend the Thermal Coating. Keeps down heat under the hood, and prolongs the life of the header.
I'd stay away from the HEDMAN 89500's. Do your homework.

Don't you have to cut your frame with the patriot's? I'd rather cut a header than my frame. I got the 89500's... the driver side fits fine and I think the passenger side will fit good after a little chop-and-weld. I should know within a few weeks.




Originally Posted by 5.0
Don't you have to cut your frame with the patriot's? I'd rather cut a header than my frame. I got the 89500's... the driver side fits fine and I think the passenger side will fit good after a little chop-and-weld. I should know within a few weeks.
Gotta' cut the frame with a lotta' things. Ain't no big deal. Do your homework on the 89500's. You are absolutely correct the Driver's Side fits good.
__________________
'89 Ranger, 5.0L AOD swap in progress, B&M Sport Shifter, ('85 Crown Vic electronics w/ CFI) Edelbrock Performer Intake and Patriot headers, otherwise stock.


james duff offer long runner design headers produces more torque than manifolds or shorty headers. 2wd requires steering shaft modification. will not work with an AOD, C-6 or gt-40P heads.

You'll have to modify the Tri-Y's to clear the AOD bell. There's a trade off in almost every choice of headers though.
Don't know exactly what's needed, but it shouldn't be that hard to do.

I have the 5.0 and AOD as well, Foxbody Mustang shorty headers fit real nice on the drivers side. Pass side you will need to cut into the upper frame rail lip, and then fishplate around it after and its just as good as before, ive never had any problems and i didnt even fishplate and i have 300hp.

I personally wouldnt mess with expensive headers, and who ever says cutting the frame rail will bust the frame...is full of crap. I have heard this stuff alot an it has never happened to my rig and im on 35" mudders. Hope this helps.

I have a couple of sets of fox body shorty headers and I mocked them up on the engine in the truck but I was thinking on doing the long tubes for more torque and the ease of doing the rest of the exhaust system. I how ever do like the idea of saving themoney and spending it other places. I am not worried about cutting the frame as my neighbor does metal fabercating and I can get the frame strengthend up if needed. I just wanted some thoughts of peoples dealings with these two headers. The set of Patriot headers is made for early mustang/falcons but I have heard of guys using them and saying that they worked good.

I have some early Mustang Tri-Y's. They touch the side of my AOD so I am going to either have to bend them or go a different route. I hate that since they are really nice chrome plated headers that I got off ebay pretty cheap. I am thinking they can be bent out or down some and then maybe wrapped to keep the heat off the trans. I have a buddy with an industrial tubing bender and he thinks he can bend the collector tube out or down as needed. Geeze I need to get back on this project...


most longtubes are gonna hit ur trans, AOD's are wide i found out the hard way. James duff longtubes are ur best bet but u will need a body lift guranteed unless you dont mind denting the floor in to clear. I once saw a guy run hooker longtubes and they fit very good, i dont even think they were made for ranger v8 swaps. Goodluck.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PTE-H8426/ These are the Patriot headers mentioned above, less than $160, no need for some pretty ceramic ones you're might have to cut up, bend and modify


http://www.hedman.com/products/?id=3461&rsku=5641 These fit the frame but not sure they clear the housing

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/ ... ht=headers

[Soul]

Your the man, thx for all the info.

[Dave]

Well, not working, keep trying to be retired so I usually have time and know where to look. So you didn't your S-10 label over at RPS? Might as well thru in your at least close address here, know there are several down your way. I've got some of them Explorers like Chris has but usually first thing I do is cut the EGR bung off and throw them in the scrap pile. They are that bad!
Keep the questions coming, or answers like what induction and cam and intended use.
Dave

[Soul]

I'll always take suggestions , from reading and what I have for parts at home, I'll probably use the 94-95 mustang vert motor mounts (have set of these in junk) will use a 88 mustang HO motor (have one in junk) with a rebuild, will stick those heads I posted earlier on it, welcome to suggest carb'd intake and cam . Will try a set of mustang shorty headers to see how they work as I have a couple of these around. Trans I will go AOD but I only have junk ones right now but can use to mock it up. I'll probably use a 4.0 explorer radiator as I have one in the junk . Probably use a 650 holley for carb. Will use the 8.8 out of the explorer as well. Think I'm good as far as rest of it goes if you see an issue with my build let me know so I can revise it before I get elbow deep in it lol.

as for location I live near Whitewater, MO.

[v8ranger]

Sounds like your on your way.... It does make it much easier to reserch all this before you get started. I did the same thing. Made the job pretty simple. The only thing I forgot to check on was how to hook up the cable for the clutch on the T-5. That was a pain in the backside.... Went to hydrolic now, that is so much nicer, and I dont have to replace the cable every year....