SOS intake swap

[cee21]

Well, I just got everything hooked back up after putting a explorer intake on, and started it up, and its idling at like 2500 to 3000 (no tach). I have all vacuum sealed up, what could be the problem. Also my drivers side o2 sensor wire was touching the header and melted the connector after about one minute of run time. What could be my issue?

[Dave]

How about a quick rundown on what you are all running, computer and sensors and such. Sure someone will have an idea.
Dave

[cee21]

Its the A9P cpu, everything is like a stock mustang, except the intake now. The throttle body and MAF is stock. Before new intake, at cold it would have a hard time running, after about a minute, it would idle fine. Once it got up to temp, it could idle at 2k once I pushed the clutch in for about 15 sec then back to normal. Then it would not start after warm, only if throttle was held wide open. So I thought vacuum leak, and been wanting to swap intakes. Now idles at roughly 2500, and stays there. Burned the plug for the 02 sensor on the passenger side, but was idling high before I melted it

[cee21]

Update:

Yesterday I disconected the battery and IAC for about half an hour. Went back to start, and it tried to idle, and kept adjusting idler screw but kept having loping idle. Could that be from my melted o2 connector? Also think I need to set my idle on the tps?

[cgrey8]

If you had a datalog of what the EEC was doing or attempting to do, I could help out with that. But with just the behavioral symptoms of what the engine is doing without the datalog, I'm afraid I'm not going to be of much use.

[cee21]

Green horn question then...how do you datalog the EEC?

[cgrey8]

Great question, and a nice LONG response all typed out right here:
EECTuning.org>Things to know BEFORE buying a TwEECer or Quarterhorse

I'm so spoiled to having the ability to datalog the EEC that I NEVER pull codes from the computer anymore. I never need to. If there's a problem big enough to throw a code, I'll be able to see exactly what it is datalogging the EEC.

[cee21]

Very much so you are spoiled. Those things ain't cheap either. How about you make the short drive up here with that datalogger for me, the weather has been GREAT here in Tennessee for the past week, you'll enjoy it. I will first fix my melted connector the the O2 sensor , then will try and set idle and timing, and if that don't work, may take it to the closest place that can datalog it for me. Speaking of timing, should I try to set that first before I try to set idle? Also, about how much should it run me to have this thing datalogged?

[cgrey8]

What you want is it tuned. In order to tune the EEC, you need a datalog to tell the tuner what needs to be changed/updated/modified. Without datalogging, making tune changes is just guessing. Now granted there are some expert tuners that have tuned enough setups that they just know what is going to need to be adjusted before they even see the setup running. Then they use the datalog to hone the fuel and idle air control closer. And for better tuning results, you want the vehicle run on a dyno so the tuner can simulate running and WOT conditions to optimize the tune further.

But for the absolute best tune possible, you really want to do it yourself where you start with a professionally done dyno tune, then you hone in the rough edges that can't be found on the dyno (i.e. cold crank, cold idle, cold and warm startup conditions). What the dyno tuners do is just fake out that portion of the tuning by simply raising the idle RPM high enough that you don't notice how poorly the fuel is dialed in at cold running conditions. But you can attain much lower RPMs if you have the ability to datalog and watch what needs to change to get a steady cold idle. Although there are some engines that simply refuse to maintain stable low RPM idle when cold even if you have a datalog to view. With those, all the datalog does is show unstable and erratic fuel control which is good to see, so you know the idle truly needs to be higher.

It's funny you mention the cost since that's a common topic with newbies over on the EECTuning forum. For those of us that have made the investment, it's like giving glasses to a legally blind person. Once you see what it buys you, the cost is completely justifiable. On stock and very-near-stock budget builds, the tuning hardware and software is a bit of an investment and a hard thing to convince yourself to invest in. But anybody that has boost or more than $2000 into their build shouldn't enter that venture without budgeting for either a professional tune or the tuning equipment to do it themselves. It's funny how people are quick to pay for engine hardware, but are hesitant to even consider tuning equipment. A good tune is every bit as important to an EFI build as the cam, intake, headers, or any other component on the engine. And if you have a computer controlled transmission, it's even more important.

[cee21]

For those of us that have made the investment, it's like giving glasses to a legally blind person.

I like it, lol.

If I can manage to sell the parts I aquired off those two explorers, I will have enough cash to get one. My other problem is that I am also trying to finish the basement of our house which is equally as expensive. Other thing is, I pulled that motor out of another explorer and plan to rebuild it, and sell the one that is currently in the Bronco. Why do I do this to myself?

[cgrey8]

...Why do I do this to myself?

When I ask myself that question, I tell myself It's cheaper than therapy. Whether it is or not I try not to dwell on too much.

[cee21]

Ok new issue. Got the won't idle then idle at 2500 after 10 seconds fixed. My throttle cable my brother kind of buggered up was holding it open some causing a 1.7 volt reading on the tps. Now, it just won't idle no matter how much I turn the set screw in. Also I believe I have a dead cell in my battery, because it will slowly turn some, and then fire up. Could a dead cell cause the idle issue? Plan on trying to run codes when I get home.

Update: bored at work, so been doing research, could be mass air sensor, or grounding issue. Anyone ever have this issue?

[cee21]

Never mind, I'm a blind man . I believe I found my problem, in taking the intake off to check the throttle flap, the intake tube came off the mass air sensor. Will attempt restart tomorrow, had to many other things going on.

[cee21]

Can I get a AMEN!!! Finally got it running like it should. Apparently, the ecu didn't like the E8 tps sensor, so put the old E6 back on, since I found that nothing was really wrong with it. Now I have to remove the upper intake and tighten the lower intake bolts since I got it up to temp. Been a long time coming to fix that vacuum leak. Also have to replace battery, dead cell in it.