2 problems i've run into

[94stranger]

1. Fuel pump/lines/wiring
2.Ignition and wiring

1. do I have to replace my pump, can I just throw a in-line pump, should I replace the entire system?

2.I'm not fully sure on how to do this or how it works. My Ranger is a '94 ext 4.0L v6 now '86 5.0L 5spd with '88 computer and harness (mass air).
the ranger has a ICM (i think), behind the driver' headlight do I have to usew this can I go with straight wiring, or an after market one (and which one?).


If anyone could help me out I would appreciate it very much. >8)

Keith

[cgrey8]

If you are keeping everything injected, then the stock pump should work just fine. I think the Rangers came with 88lph pumps stock and that's the same size pump that the Mustangs used up until around mid 90s, then they upgraded to 110lph pumps. But for a stock 5.0L that you are keeping injected, you should be fine. I'd be less worried about fuel delivery and more worried about the front accessory bracketry having fitment problems. Some 5.0L brackets would give clearance issues with the driver's side frame. Also on a side note, the 86 5.0L also had some oddball heads that were only run about one or two years before Ford standardized on the E7TE heads which ran until around 93 or 95? Cobras in 93 began using the GT40 heads. I can't remember if 94-95 Mustangs also inherited those heads or not.

As for ignition and wiring, there are lots of threads that talk about this. However you are ahead of the game if you have a wiring harness that went with the motor you are using. There'll be far less re-routing of stuff. At this point, the best thing to do is get the wiring diagrams for the year of your wiring harness and the year of your Ranger. Then find where everything needs to go and make it happen with a pair of wire strippers and a soldering iron.

As for the ICM, I'm going to have to play dumb on that one since I'm not familiar with that acronym. The good news is Malcolm's Blue Ranger is a 94, so he should be able to chime in on that.

[cjcnomor4]

the ignition module for the 4.0 is useless for your 86 5.0. the tfi on the distributor is your new ignition module. throw your 4.0 edis in the pile of stuff you're selling or scrapping.

[94stranger]

CJ so your saying that I can cut out the icm (behind drivers' headlight) from the ranger harness and wire the body ign. wire from the interior to the mustang distributor???

[cgrey8]

Now that I understand that an ICM is an EDIS6 controller, then this makes a little more sense.

The EDIS6 is a device that listens to a crankshaft position sensor to determine when to fire what coil. It also gets a signal from the EEC to tell it how much advance to put on the spark. Since what you are installing is not an EDIS (Electronic Distributorless Ignition System) ignition system but rather a distributor-based TFI system, you don't need the EDIS6 anymore. You can rip it out, leave it there, whatever.

However the EDIS modules did put out a PIP signal for the tach and for the EEC to know what the RPMs are. If you are asking what to do about the PIP going from your EDIS6 to your dash's tach, well you wire the dash tach wire to the PIP wire from your distributor's TFI module.

Make sense?

[94stranger]

perfect sense.

thanks

you really know your s**t
lol

[94stranger]

the mustang brackets work fine no clearence issues. . . . . . unless you do it with a/c than you got issues (of course thats what i want).
if its just power steering its good but if you got a/c you p/s pump bracket goes into the frame!

I'm doing the swap now with out a/c for now and than i'm going to swap in the a/c, p/s brackets from a lincoln which canges the location of the a/c and p/s position to give me the clearence I need

[cgrey8]

As for knowing my stuff, credit goes to the others on this site that have taught me what I know.

Oh one catch about wiring the V8 directly to your tach, you have a V6 tach. So your RPMs are going to be about 25% higher than actual. My truck is still running with a tach that displays way higher than it rightfully should. Even if the RPM value being reported isn't accurate, it's still nice to have a visual of what the engine is doing even if 6000RPMs on my tach is really only 4500RPMs. Malcolm used to make some little devices that would convert a V8 PIP to a PIP that a V6 tach wants. But he hasn't made them in a long time. Since he's not making them anymore, maybe he'll share the design so we can make them ourselves.

If you can find them, the Explorer motors work great for Ranger swaps. They have more power than most stock 302 motors out there since they are HO motors and have GT40p heads from the factory. They also have a very compressed accessory bracket setup to get you all the clearances you need. What Malcolm and I both did was retrofit our Explorer motors back to 89-93 Mustang standards and run them as Mustang engines. They are also excellent platforms to build from if you are looking to do future performance mods since they are roller blocks, have Cobra-inspired intakes, GT40p heads, and 65mm TBs...all right from the factory. They are not your typical "truck" motor. The downside to them is...you have to retrofit them with older sensors, dizzy, and sometimes injectors.

The setup you have now (engine, harness, and computer all made for each other) is a much better plug-n-play solution and will get you on the road much sooner with fewer issues and rewiring requirements. It's just a matter of getting the right wires from your Ranger chassis wiring to the right wire on the V8 harness. My recommendation to you before hacking into the V8 harness too much, go clip some Ranger harnesses from a junker in a yard that can be used to plug into your Ranger's chassis connectors. Then wire these clipped connectors onto your V8's harness. This way, the motor plugs into the Ranger just like it was meant to be there from the factory. This also makes it more convenient if you ever need to pull the motor (as opposed to hard soldering to the chassis). Also avoid open-air spade connectors. I've found they corrode and cause intermittent bad connections. If you need spade connectors, use the kind that have the plastic covers that make them more weather resistant and put that connector grease on them to further ward off any corrosion.

Any other questions? If so, start a new thread. And keep the questions coming.

[cjcnomor4]

i'm not sure what you mean by 'body ign wire'. give me a color (main color and tracer line if any) of the wire you're talking about and i'll let you know where it needs to go.

[94stranger]

The ranger has 2 connectors under the hood on drivers' side firewall, one for the stock computer, and a round white one that connects to one on the inside.
What I did is a tried to take most of the 4.0L cpu harness out as I could.

know I got a bnch of wires I don't know where to hook it up, and don't wanna fry my computer!

lt. blu/ yel
gry/red
blu/org
pnk/grn
lt. blu/dk. blu
gry/white

I'm not certain if I need all those wires I have some others to I have to look at the harness and see

[cjcnomor4]

are those wires on the mustang harness or the ranger harness?

[94stranger]

all those colours are from the ranger harness