I've gone Turbo!!!

[302project]

After a few runs including the one that I video taped, the truck started to smoke like it was a concert smoking machine so I decided to stop that by installing a moroso breather tank


Here is the bracket that I made that is going to hold the tank


Moroso breather tank


After several hours thinking where teh heck i was going to mount the tank since the tank is a little taller than what I thought, because I was going to mounted next to the fuel regulator but the lines were going to hit the intake tube so no. I found the perfect spot next to the battery bracket/support/whatever its called lol


Here it is on its new home lol


For the breathing lines I used -10an lines and fitting which are more than enough in my opinion. Also I used a -16 an fitting and cap as an oil cap becuase the rubber oil cap after a while the rubber get soft and lets oil come out.


Another shot


Again another shot


A shot on the other side


I took the truck for a little drive and guess what no more oil smoking machine lol

BTW I also deleted the pcv valve I put a rubber plug in the hole so I don't have to worry about boost going into the block. I used this

[cgrey8]

Why do you have 3 O2 sensors in your exhaust line? At most, you only need 2...one HEGO for the puter and one Wideband O2 for monitoring AFR. Why the 3rd?

[302project]

I'm using the stock computer and it uses 2 O2 sensors and 1 is for the wideband

[cgrey8]

First off, here's a fun fact. In the case of 2-bank EECs where one HEGO is failed, the EEC will use the working HEGO to modulate and control both banks. One failed HEGO will produce a code, but I don't believe it triggers the CEL, and certainly will not do anything else.

The other thing you said is you are using a stock tune. No boosted application should ever run a stock tune that was never meant to control boosted conditions. But as long as you aren't detonating or running lean, it shouldn't hurt anything. But things won't be optimal. If you want more detail, I'll elaborate.

[302project]

Well it really isn't a stock tune but the tuner told me that I could go on boost as long as I don't rev it at idle(creating boost) and my AFR close to WOT is 11.8 a little rich but this is for now until I
fix my overheating problems then I'll take the truck back to the tuner for a fine tuning.

[cgrey8]

That sounds better. And if you want, have the tuner set your tune for only 1 HEGO so you don't have to maintain 2 HEGOs in the pipe for no good reason. Take out the other HEGO, plug the hole, and keep the perfectly good HEGO as a spare.

[302project]

^^ interesting.. I'll keep that in mind but what about the harness? You know that the stock mustang harness for the oxygen sensor is like a Y. Or there's a harness kit for just one?

Thanks

[cgrey8]

Once the tune is setup to only work off of 1 HEGO, you simply abandon the driver's side HEGO connection. Everything should be based off the passenger's side HEGO at that point. At that point, do whatever you want with the connector...cut it out of your wiring harness, tape it up, whatever. The EEC will still monitor and register that HEGO if left in...the code will simply ignore it, exactly like turning off the Thermactor (Smog Pump) or the EGR.

[302project]

cool thanks for the tip. I'll probably cut it out since the harness is kinda long. Thanks again

[usmcrp1044]

Why don't you plumb the lines to vent the crankcase out the front of the valve covers?

I have heard of, and know that one person on this site, had a problem with sucking oil out of the back of the valve cover under acceleration. It was rojam (old trucker), but he was also using a header evac kit.

I see you have the fitting on the front, so why you venting from the back?

[302project]

If you say that the old trucker had a header evac kit and was sucking oil out during acceleration is because I read somewhere that it creates too much vacuum and you have
to put a valve in between so that doesn't happen but I'm really not sure but I don't have to worry about that because I'm not creating vacuum, and
I don't vent the crankcase out on the front fitting is because that front fitting is my oil cap, since the oil caps that I had before (rubber ones) after a while they get
soft and lets oil out to the valve covers making a mess so to me It wouldn't make any difference being on the front.

[usmcrp1044]

If you say that the old trucker had a header evac kit and was sucking oil out during acceleration is because I read somewhere that it creates too much vacuum and you have
to put a valve in between so that doesn't happen but I'm really not sure but I don't have to worry about that because I'm not creating vacuum, and
I don't vent the crankcase out on the front fitting is because that front fitting is my oil cap, since the oil caps that I had before (rubber ones) after a while they get
soft and lets oil out to the valve covers making a mess so to me It wouldn't make any difference being on the front.

Your right that your not making vacuum, but you do have crankcase pressure. The pressure alone is enough to push the oil up and out.
The problem happens under acceleration. Oil gets pushed to the back of the head, which is right near that hose.

If you notice your oil catch can filling up fast, just try hooking the line up to the front of the valve cover and see if it makes a difference. I'm curious to see if it will.

Good luck

[302project]

Again I could be wrong but I don't think that hooking the hose at the front is going to make a difference. The same oil that is being pushed up in the back is being pushed up
in the front. And so far I don't think that the pressure is that bad since I have ran the truck hard several times in the past 2 days since I put the catch can and I have not even
one drop of oil in the catch can.

[cgrey8]

I'm still not getting how your setup is circulating crank case gas back into the engine's intake.

In a normal Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system, you have a "fresh-air" line exposed to atmosphere after the MAF, but not in an area where air gets boosted. It is important that the fresh air line be AFTER the MAF since this is air that ultimately will be drawn into the engine for combustion and thus needs to be metered (known about by the EEC). The fresh-air line connects to the engine at a valve cover or on the side of the oil filler inlet and serves as the crank case's supply of incoming fresh air. Next, you have a PCV valve that pulls crank case gasses from some other place on the engine, either the back of the engine or the other valve cover. The PCV valve is able to draw those gases because it is attached to a vacuum tap. Without a vacuum source to negatively pressurize the crank case, the clean atmospheric air can't be drawn into the engine from the fresh air line.

The PCV valve conditionally allows crank case air flow at cruising loads so that blow-by air/fuel/exhaust gasses don't build up in the crank case, contaminate the oil, and get into the atmosphere. At times of high vacuum or at WOT (low vacuum or boost), the PCV should be flowing very minimal amounts of air or none at all. The rattling weight inside the PCV valve sits on the bottom of the valve where the crank case inlet is when the engine is at low vacuum like WOT or when the engine is not running. The weight covering the hole blocks the path for PCV flow. When the engine is at high vacuum, the vacuum sucks that weight up to the top of the PCV valve which reduces air flow at that condition too. It is important that the valve does this so the vacuum the engine is producing at idle isn't "satisfied" by the PCV system. Allowing too much airflow at idle would cause the engine to idle too high when it didn't have to. However when cruising, the engine should be producing just enough vacuum to lift the weight in the PCV valve off the bottom, but not enough to overcome a spring that is above the weight, preventing it from getting sucked to the top of the PCV valve. Different engines produce different amounts of vacuum while cruising hence why there are so many different part numbers for PCVs that look exactly the same. What's different is the size of the weight and the strength of the spring.

In most all boosted applications, the PCV valve should be designed to work with boost which simply means it creates a better seal vs just a restriction to flow at WOT. Boost PCV valves are often hose clamped in-line or threaded onto the engine so they are not easily blown out of the engine in the event they experience a high boost condition which should never happen, but might. Also, boosted applications that locate the MAF after the super/turbo (aka Blow-Thru setups) require a special crank case pressure regulator valve on the fresh air line. Since the fresh air line must be after the MAF, this locates the fresh air line where boost pressure can exist. This pressure regulator valve reduces or stops air flow through the fresh air line if the crank case pressure begins to rise above atmospheric. The crank case should never experience high pressure or high vacuum conditions...only mild vacuum conditions from the PCV valve at cruising that are just enough to produce air flow through the engine.

Now looking at your setup, I see two lines from the canister going to each valve cover. And I see the little air filter on the canister which leads me to believe this is the fresh air inlet? What I'm failing to see is how you are pulling vacuum on the crank case to get fresh air to flow through those lines. Without a vacuum source, you aren't going to get flow...or very minimal amounts of flow as the collection of blow-by gasses itself begin to concentrate in the crank case, create pressure, and backflow up those lines to the canister and filter...which based on comments above sounds like is what is happening. So, what I think needs to change to make a true PCV system is one of those lines needs to go to your air flow inlet after the MAF. In the case of a carb, just mount the little air filter right to the valve cover. The other valve cover's line would go to the oil collection canister. The canister would then go to an in-line PCV valve. In your case, it should be a PCV valve meant to work with boost. And the PCV valve would go to a vacuum tap on the engine. This would draw air through the engine, clearing it of blow-by gasses, separate out any oil picked up by the PCV valve line in the canister, and draw the crank case gasses into the engine.

So, what am I missing in these pics?

[302project]

^^ Unfortunately I'm not pulling any vacuum, I wish I could bolt a vacuum pump but with the power steering pump and the alternator I don't have room for one but
with this setup the gases exit from the valve cover to the catch can and that air filter is just to filter the gases coming out of the can so you don't have a
mess to clean, filter dirty? just replace it and you are done, and like I stated before I ran the truck hard several times and I don't have any oil leaks
That's good enough for me. Now when I increase the boost if have any leaks, then I'll see what I can do.

Remember you don't what to have too much vacuum because you will leave your wrist pins dry, I understand that on your explanation you are taking about using the pcv system as a vacuum source but there's one problem with that, all of the oily gases gets on your intake manifold and valves creating sludge overtime, not good on any kind of engine specially high performance. As long as the gases exit the block somehow you will not have oil leaks.