Oh wise ones guide me :)

[Soul]

Ok been dead for a bit (had a stint in the hospital, and FYI Spinal Taps hurt like crap, leaking spinal taps hurt like f*n crap, and the blood patch is a day in the park) but I got funding (around 3k) for my ranger project, got a set of GT-40 heads (one pair has 1.940 intake and 1.600 exhaust SS valves, and converted to screw in studs and crane dual valve springs) and a 90 mustang motor that ran when parked, I need to find an AOD, all other parts per swap I have in the junk and have been granted permission to steal what I need. So with those heads and mustang HO shortblock (depending if need bored I'll go stroker) what ball park power numbers we talking? And don't ask me what my goal is, Insanity replaces all reason when I do a car project, as much as I want to spend and can drive on street in ran without killing my self. Pump gas friendly is my only real limiting factor here. Look for this to come together over the next 2 months and I may be on and off for moral support. As for headers it is looking like mustang shorties or I'll just tuff it up and buy the torque monsters.

Thanks,
Alan Robinson

[Soul]

Btw sorry if I'm rambling kinda taking Vicodin by the handful right now <it makes me do it.

[cgrey8]

Assuming the gt40 heads got ported when they got the valve upgrade, you are probably in the 220cfm/port range. Read the MM&FF head shootout for comparison hp values with other heads that flowed about that much.

You shouldn't need TMs since Gt40 heads have STD plug angles. It's the Gt40p heads that need the special headers.

Is this gonna be carbed or EFI? And how street drivable does it need to be? By your tone, fuel economy is not a concern. But what about idle stability, off-idle torque, and cruising smoothness? If any of that is important, then I would limit cam duration to 218* or less.

If you do stroke, sounds like a 347 stroker is what you are looking for.

[cgrey8]

http://airflowresearch.com/articles/ult ... 2/A-P1.htm

there's the link to theMM&FF article. Compare to the Gt40 aluminum heads in the article for an idea of what to expect.

[Soul]

Ya those AFR's are in the future, for now though just the GT 40's as I'm getting them in trade for a turbo I have.

[cgrey8]

Any thoughts or comments on my other questions?

[Soul]

Sorry kind of out of it still, gonna be carb, I would like something to idle at a stop light, fuel economy isn't a huge concern as when I drive it, it will be WOT all the time. As far as torque, my t bird had about 300lbs of torque at 3k when the turbo kicked in, I liked that alot (below 3k it was a 2.3 with 8:1 comp, ran like dog stuffins), be nice to get that down to some tire roasting rpm range. Don't think I'll be turning it over 5-6k rpm since I'll have an AOD. So I guesss priority on low to mid power range. Btw thanks for answering general questions, this is one of the friendliest forums around, I'll try and get some pics on here next time I go out to the house.

[cgrey8]

In that case, the best off-the-shelf cams for what you are looking for will be:
Crane Powermax 2030
Comp XE264HR-12
Comp XE264HR-14 (if using 1.7RRs and some seriously stiff springs)

Any of these cams will give you excellent idle, decent low RPM torque, and will extend the pull right to 6000RPMs if your heads and intake can keep up. Their torque curve is starting to fall off about 5500, but they'll hang to 6000, then it'll be time to shift. Since most stock and street components aren't really sized to go much over 6000 without some work to the valvetrain, IMO it is really not useful to size a cam to stretch further. I've recommended these cams to people on the EECTuning.org forum and nobody has complained about them. They are perfectly sized for 90% of everything you'll be able to do.

BTW, these are roller cams. So you'll need to be sure to be using a roller block and roller lifters. Sometimes I forget to mention that. If you don't have a roller block, I HIGHLY recommend you start a major build on a roller block and ditch whatever ancient block you got that isn't a roller block. If you are just married to the block, you can buy roller-conversion lifters for non-roller blocks. But for the cost, you could probably just find a roller block in a junkyard. Also keep in mind that most any Windsor cast since 85 is capable of being a roller block even if it was stuffed with a nonroller cam (mostly truck/van engines). It just needs to be drilled and tapped to accept the bolts for the spider.

[v8ranger]

Sorry to here about your health. I feel your pain. I have had one of those leaks in the spine from an injection for my back. That is one MASSIVE headache I dont ever want again Now I'm recovering from having a pain pump put in for my back. Should be healed enough just in time for bow season... Sounds like a nice project you have going. If your going automatic and the cam idle is to choppy, you might have to get a stall converter...

[Soul]

Motor is from a 90 Mustang gt, Comp XE264HR-12 that was the cam I was looking at, heads will be some gt-40's I'm getting in trade till I get some AFR's on it, most likely it is looking like it will be a 331 now as I have a person who is hooking me up with a good deal. And no plans of turning more then 6k. Did a walk through today and I have 90% of what I need in the junk.

[Soul]

Btw here is some pics of the project truck, also if its against forums rules to embed these let me know and I'll do links instead. Truck is awesome clean, all of it is surface rust and only has maybe 3 dents.
Side Shot


Nose Shot


Rear


Interior 1


Interior 2


Future Bumper / Radiator whatever I can use donor

[v8ranger]

Looks like you have your work cute out for you. Looks like it has been sitting for a while... Body does look like its in pretty good shape though.....

[Soul]

Sat 11 years lol, surprisingly everything is in awesome shape. BTW on the hood and side that isn't rust, its mold, only rust is on tailgate even the underneath is nonrust.

[Soul]

Today I get to go start on pulling motors, 1 from 90 mustang (donor motor) 1 from 94 mustang convertible (motor mounts and mock up motor and trans) and motor plus trans from 87 ranger (future home of donor motor). Probably only get everything broke loose today, for a puller have to use a GIANT A frame since they are in the yard and the cherry picker isn't exactly 4x4. May take pics but usually when I'm working I'm to caught up to pause for pics. Just happy to make progress.

Also a radiator from a 94 explorer with v6 and AC should be big enough for the future v8 right?

[v8ranger]

I dont know what everyone has used for radiators. I had one made, but I had to because the supercharger was in the way for the upper inlet. The rad I had before that, I dont know what it came out of. I got it from a guy who was junking a v8 ranger, and he didnt know what it was out of either, he bought the truck that way.