Rear main seal leak

Warpig Racing · Post by **Warpig Racing** » Sun May 14, 2006 10:30 pm

AAAARRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG!!!!!

Well I was breaking in the motor a few weeks ago and I had an oil leak. Turned out to be the rear main. There was no chance of replacing in the truck due to the main girdle kit that was installed. So I pulled the motor and spent $22 in gaskets/seals to get it all fixed. There is a small spike in the rear main cap that should hold the seal in place. this spike was jacked up and just crushed my seal when i originally installed. So i ground down the spike so it did not do the same thing.

I also decided to cut out the core support above the radiator and welded some pieces on it so it bolts in. WOW!!! this was nice for installing the motor. I just bolted the motor to the tranny and installed all my accessories and it droped right in. It took me < 2 hours to drop the motor & tranny in and hook up everything. This was a definate time saver. I will post so pics soon.

87ranger · Post by **87ranger** » Mon May 15, 2006 4:19 pm

hey buddy what i did to make it easier to get my transmission in and out
easier was to build a removable section in the suspension front brace where it overlaps. easily shaved an hour off removale and installation
of c-4 or aod.

cjcnomor4 · Post by **cjcnomor4** » Mon May 15, 2006 4:42 pm

where did you make a break in the radius arm crossmember? as of now i have to lift the body off the frame about 2 inches to get the trans in and out

87ranger · Post by **87ranger** » Mon May 15, 2006 5:01 pm

look under the vehicle and you will see four bolts with goofy lock nuts attached to the tops cut the channels just to the inside of the holes then get a peice of sqare tube steel that will fit in the channel weld two peices of steel perpendicular to the brace so they line up with the holes

+--------+ looks similar to this

87ranger · Post by **87ranger** » Mon May 15, 2006 5:03 pm

it also helps to trim or hammer or do both to the body flange above the bellhousing

Warpig Racing · Post by **Warpig Racing** » Tue May 16, 2006 12:00 am

I have also torched out the ribots on that trans crossmember and replaced w/ 1/2" bolts so i can remove the c6 with ease. I gotta say that I wish i had made these mods sooner as i can now remove the whole motor and tranny w/o even taking my belts off the motor. Its basically removing the radiator, unhooking the tranny lines, removing pass header (I can leave drivers headder on), undo tranny mount and motor mount bolts, a few wires and linkages and it is smooth.

87ranger · Post by **87ranger** » Tue May 16, 2006 5:46 am

you know, if you have the mount with the rubber bushings on each side you can just tap out the two 6'' bolts that hold it in. alot easier than than removing the frame brackets. and if you put a removable section in your front suspenion brace like i described to someone else it gives you more room for tailshaft clearance when removing or installing.

Warpig Racing · Post by **Warpig Racing** » Tue May 16, 2006 7:16 am

I do not have rubber mounts. I built custom solid mounts. Its not really a problem to take the motor in and out you just cant do it with the tranny attached. Now I can and it is very easy.