new at rangers, how easy is the v8 swap
Moderator: MalcolmV8
new at rangers, how easy is the v8 swap
here is the deal, i just bought a 86( I think, have not brought it home yet)and I want to do a carberated v8 swap for mudding. I notice that all the adapters are exspensive. is there any way around the adapters(i plan on getting the motor mounts thou)? the truck already has a 2 inch body lift. Also does anyone know about putting a chevy 350 in one?? i really just want more info. Please help thanks
- cgrey8
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Since you are talking adapters and such, I'm assuming you have a 4x4? In that case, yes you are in for a more complicated swap since it is difficult to find setups that perfectly support 4x4s in Rangers without complicating something else. The good news for you is you plan to go carbed so no ECM and wiring stuff to worry about.
L&L motor mounts will probably ease your installation experience, but if you are a good fabricator, you'll probably find you can relocate the factory motor mounts down on the crossmember and make your own plates for the 302 to bolt the engine to the mounts.
Since I've never dealt with 4x4 anything, I can't give you any good suggestions on options there, but there are a few threads dealing with that. I don't remember what the outcome has been on what's best.
As for a SBC350 in a Ranger, I'm sure it is possible, but you'll probably have many of the same problems people have getting a SBF351 into a Ranger AND everything will be a custom job. However since the SBC 4x4 offerings are more prevolent, that may be a very good option for you to explore.
L&L motor mounts will probably ease your installation experience, but if you are a good fabricator, you'll probably find you can relocate the factory motor mounts down on the crossmember and make your own plates for the 302 to bolt the engine to the mounts.
Since I've never dealt with 4x4 anything, I can't give you any good suggestions on options there, but there are a few threads dealing with that. I don't remember what the outcome has been on what's best.
As for a SBC350 in a Ranger, I'm sure it is possible, but you'll probably have many of the same problems people have getting a SBF351 into a Ranger AND everything will be a custom job. However since the SBC 4x4 offerings are more prevolent, that may be a very good option for you to explore.
...Always Somethin'
89 Ranger Supercab, 331, ported GT40p heads w/1.6RRs, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, ported Explorer lower, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, A9L w/Moates QuarterHorse, Innovate LC-1, James Duff traction bars, iDelta DC Fan controller
Admin of EECtuning.org
89 Ranger Supercab, 331, ported GT40p heads w/1.6RRs, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, ported Explorer lower, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, A9L w/Moates QuarterHorse, Innovate LC-1, James Duff traction bars, iDelta DC Fan controller
Admin of EECtuning.org
WHAT!!!!!
SBC IN A FORD? WHY IN THE @%&&*$@@!^ WOULD ANYONE WANT TO DO THAT? there are too many options (ford) to even consider it.
I just bought a V8 85' Ranger with a SBC 350 in it looks clean and doesn't look that complicated looks like some harnesses and hoses had to be cut and made to fit or work... it is also carburated so it is easier to tune and work on and probably make possible. it was 4x4 now is 2wd... any questions shoot them at me and i can try to find out how they did it, also noticed frame was notched on passenger side, for manifold... and they made a bracket for the alternator which i think is a ford alternator.
- Dave
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Hey, welcome aboard! There have always been a lot of questions asked about the swap you have now. Got any pictures yet? Frame notching is a normal thing with the 5.0 swap, depending on whih header you end up with. I have always thought that the SBC would fit better but all the other issues (wiring, swap parts availability) would cause problems, not to mention badmouthed for putting a Cheby in a Ford. Hey, there is a guy in town here that did the oposite, put a 5.0 in an S-10.
Dave
Dave
'66'Ranchero 302/5 speed
2015 Stage 3 Roush - rated at 670 hp
2000 Ext Cab/4 door swap project
2000 Ext Cab/4 door, Summer beater
2000 Ext Cab/4 door, Winter beater
1969 Fairlane Cobra in Barn, just waiting
2015 Stage 3 Roush - rated at 670 hp
2000 Ext Cab/4 door swap project
2000 Ext Cab/4 door, Summer beater
2000 Ext Cab/4 door, Winter beater
1969 Fairlane Cobra in Barn, just waiting
- cgrey8
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As much as I don't like the idea of a Ford wearing a bowtie, I think there's probably a good argument for doing it especially if you are an SBC buff and know the engine.
But I'd think there's less reason to want a blue oval squirrel-caging an S10. SBC parts are generally cheaper than Ford and far more interchangeable amongst the various years mainly because the SBC basic design stayed the same. Where the SBF comes in multiple deck heights, different head bolt diameters, different balances, different firing orders, yadda yadda yadda. The parts are far less easily interchangeable from year to year so it's no wonder Ford has historically been more expensive to build than an SBC...not to mention the obvious 48 extra cubes you get in an SBC 350 over an SBF 302.
However if he's done it, I'm sure he had his reasons. I'd like to see it just to see it. But I can't say I have any burning desire to ever mix-n-match like that.
But I'd think there's less reason to want a blue oval squirrel-caging an S10. SBC parts are generally cheaper than Ford and far more interchangeable amongst the various years mainly because the SBC basic design stayed the same. Where the SBF comes in multiple deck heights, different head bolt diameters, different balances, different firing orders, yadda yadda yadda. The parts are far less easily interchangeable from year to year so it's no wonder Ford has historically been more expensive to build than an SBC...not to mention the obvious 48 extra cubes you get in an SBC 350 over an SBF 302.
However if he's done it, I'm sure he had his reasons. I'd like to see it just to see it. But I can't say I have any burning desire to ever mix-n-match like that.
...Always Somethin'
89 Ranger Supercab, 331, ported GT40p heads w/1.6RRs, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, ported Explorer lower, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, A9L w/Moates QuarterHorse, Innovate LC-1, James Duff traction bars, iDelta DC Fan controller
Admin of EECtuning.org
89 Ranger Supercab, 331, ported GT40p heads w/1.6RRs, Crane Powermax 2020 cam, ported Explorer lower, FMS Explorer (GT40p) headers, aftermarket T5 'Z-Spec', 8.8" rear w/3.27s, Powertrax Locker, A9L w/Moates QuarterHorse, Innovate LC-1, James Duff traction bars, iDelta DC Fan controller
Admin of EECtuning.org
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How hard is it? depends on how clean you want it to be. Since you are looking at a mudding truck, a super clean factory install probably isn't what you want. Sounds like you want a quick and easy dirty play toy.
use a 302, they are smaller and fit better.
Use a 4WD automatic that came out of a full size truck.
Find a NP205 transfer case that will bolt to the 4WD auto trans (mid to late 70's full size ford). Some trimming of intermidiet housing will be required with the AOD and the '80 and newer short C6 tailshaft is too short for the NP205.
Option B is a matching C4 and dana 20 out of a '73 to '77 bronco, but those are somewhat hard to come by.
The NP205 and dana 20 are recomended due to there compace size to fit in the frame rail and being a rugged cast iron all gear drive design.
From there fire up the welder and build your own motor mounts and crossmembers as needed.
Mustang oil pans are a quick easy fit most of the time.
If you decide on headers, install them before you build your motor mounts so you can sit your motor in the right place.
For a mud truck, get a big huge radiator with electric fans and mount it in the bed, use muffler pipe to route the coolant.
Using junkyard parts it can be hacked together in a couple weekends for a few hunderd bucks and a few 12 packs.
use a 302, they are smaller and fit better.
Use a 4WD automatic that came out of a full size truck.
Find a NP205 transfer case that will bolt to the 4WD auto trans (mid to late 70's full size ford). Some trimming of intermidiet housing will be required with the AOD and the '80 and newer short C6 tailshaft is too short for the NP205.
Option B is a matching C4 and dana 20 out of a '73 to '77 bronco, but those are somewhat hard to come by.
The NP205 and dana 20 are recomended due to there compace size to fit in the frame rail and being a rugged cast iron all gear drive design.
From there fire up the welder and build your own motor mounts and crossmembers as needed.
Mustang oil pans are a quick easy fit most of the time.
If you decide on headers, install them before you build your motor mounts so you can sit your motor in the right place.
For a mud truck, get a big huge radiator with electric fans and mount it in the bed, use muffler pipe to route the coolant.
Using junkyard parts it can be hacked together in a couple weekends for a few hunderd bucks and a few 12 packs.